Our veggie garden is about 40 feet by 60 feet; a little smaller than the city lot we lived on at our first house. I wish I knew what I know now when I started the garden. I would have been able to reduce my efforts and create a more productive and easier to manage garden. In 2004, I started my veggie garden the way I had always started a garden: remove the lawn; double-dig the exposed area; add compost and bone meal. Wrong, wrong, wrong! (maybe I should say, instead of "wrong", That there is an easier & better way).
Removing the sod, removes valuable organic material, filled with nutrients, worms and beneficial organisms. Plus it is really hard to do. To follow this method takes hours of back-breaking work BUT there is an easier way...a 100% organic method that is easier and gives better results.
There are a few techniques that are not totally organic which I practice far away from my veggie garden. And no, I'm not talking DDT and a battery of chemicals, I'm talking unbleached paper, that is not glossy or inked. Well, Ok, I'll admit it...sometimes I do use inked paper but it is only in my garden beds. How paranoid do we have to be?
I'm not sure? But if we can create beautiful, great tasting food that is not peppered with chemicals, then why not, especially if it is easier. I know, you are probably saying "get on with it, tell us about this EASY method."
Here it is:
1: Don't remove your lawn! Build your garden on top of your lawn. First cover the lawn with a mulch like grass cuttings, dried leaves, peat moss (make sure you wet it first!). Then cover it with fresh organic compost. What you don't have compost?! We'll get to that in another post, but let say that creating beautiful compost is easy and not expensive.
2: Keep the mulch less than 3 to 4" per layer. So, if you lots of grass cuttings, then use it up in over a few layers, alternating with dried leaves, peat moss or coarsely decomposed garden compost.
3: Cover with a few inches of compost soil.
4: Start planting!
5: use un-inked burlap sacks over the seeded area, laying directly on the soil. Keep the burlap wet. Remove the sacks once the seedlings emerge.
6: Mulch thinly covering all the exposed soil other than the seedlings. Keep the mulch an inch or more from the stem (in most cases) just to make sure the mulch rots the tender stem.
And that's it! It's that simple!
Sunday, July 02, 2006
Well, well, well!
Well, when we bought a rural house we were made aware that the acreage was "on a well." And that the sellers of the property would add water to the well "on hot dry summers." We were not sure how much water was ordered every summer but after finding out that for $95, a local water company would add 3,000 gallons of 'fresh drinking water' into our well, we felt that was not going to be a cost issue.
We were used to being on city water, which was always available and only "on hot, dry summers" that the City would order homeowners to water their gardens only every other day (3 1/2 hours in the morning until 7:30 and 3 hours in the evening after 9 pm). This meant that someone could water their city garden for at least 6 1/2 hours a day. The average sprinkler will spray around 5 gallons a minute; therefore a 6 1/2 city watering spree translates into A LOT of water (I don't feel like doing the math, but in my head I calculate 3,150 gallons).
Any way, we became aware of our water usage. I bought a small plastic tub to fit into the sink and collected all our dish water and added it to our watering cans outside. We installed a water-wise toilet that used only 1 1/2 gallons per flush and chanted to all guests "If it's Yellow, let it mellow. If it is brown, flush it down." (I still have trouble saying this to my Parents who visit occasionally as it just brings attention to the fact that I have abandoned my career and have gone off into the woods to exist off the land'.)
Sorry for the digression...ANY WAYS, I bought four 75 gallon water barrels that I installed under the shed. I first had to install gutters. Being a City Boy, I called the local 'Gutter installation" company and was given a quote of $400. Now, this price would not have been an issue but having left the city and closed our city office meant to our clients that we had moved away. A very good observation,one in which they would be correct. But I digress, needless to say there was some questioning about whether any business would come to us 'long distance' so income may be reduced (or eliminated!). So, after all these brain configurations I decided that I can save money and install them myself.
At Home Depot gutters were sold in 10 foot lengths. After, loading up on the necessary brackets, downpipes and silicone glue I drove home satisfied that all this cost me $140, therefore saving me $260 if I had it done 'professionally'.
After, many slips of the gutter sections, having to get off my ladder to retrieve the fallen pieces, and using three 10 foot sections (one cut to 9 feet long to fit), I had the gutters and downpipes up. I then waited excitedly for the firsrt rain to see my handiwork and watch as the water went from my downpipe into the water barrels.
Soon one evening, the clouds rolled in and the heavens opened, and rain poured from the sky. I went over to one of the water barrels and was thrilled to see the rain water flowing into the barrel. The rain water was also dripping from every joint of the 10 foot section but it didn't look like too much was falling and with a spring in my step i headed inside.
The next morning I raced outside, wondering how much water had collected. I was immediately disappointed when i saw that both my drainpipes had fallen away from my gutter, allowing the water to fall on the ground, missing my rain barrels.
I headed back to Home Depot and loaded up on silicone glue and mounded more glue over the joints of the 10 foot sections. As well, I bent the downpipes into a smaller shape and forced them back onto the gutter. I won't get into all the gory details but let's just say that I now have buckets, on the ground, under each joint that continues to leak. The down pipes only rarely fall off as I have placed a concrete cinder block between the end of the down pipe and the water barrel. This keeps the downpipe from falling off.
But, the good news is I easily fill up all 4 barrels every major rainstorm. So for most of May, and a few more times in June, July and August I can collect 300 gallons from my barrels to water the garden. I fill up my two 2 1/2 gallon watering cans and handwater my veggie garden and our flower beds.
I sometimes think about, for only $260 more I could have had a professionally looking (and functioning!) gutter and downpipes but I was a CityBoy farmer now and I had to do more around the homestead.
Since buying the place we have not needed to fill up the well and I have stopped collecting the dishwater but still happily collect the rainwater. I estimate that when my barrels are empty I use about 125 gallons of well water, per day, for my garden. I wish I had a bigger cistern to collect the water during the winter months, eliminating my need for the well water for watering the garden.
We were used to being on city water, which was always available and only "on hot, dry summers" that the City would order homeowners to water their gardens only every other day (3 1/2 hours in the morning until 7:30 and 3 hours in the evening after 9 pm). This meant that someone could water their city garden for at least 6 1/2 hours a day. The average sprinkler will spray around 5 gallons a minute; therefore a 6 1/2 city watering spree translates into A LOT of water (I don't feel like doing the math, but in my head I calculate 3,150 gallons).
Any way, we became aware of our water usage. I bought a small plastic tub to fit into the sink and collected all our dish water and added it to our watering cans outside. We installed a water-wise toilet that used only 1 1/2 gallons per flush and chanted to all guests "If it's Yellow, let it mellow. If it is brown, flush it down." (I still have trouble saying this to my Parents who visit occasionally as it just brings attention to the fact that I have abandoned my career and have gone off into the woods to exist off the land'.)
Sorry for the digression...ANY WAYS, I bought four 75 gallon water barrels that I installed under the shed. I first had to install gutters. Being a City Boy, I called the local 'Gutter installation" company and was given a quote of $400. Now, this price would not have been an issue but having left the city and closed our city office meant to our clients that we had moved away. A very good observation,one in which they would be correct. But I digress, needless to say there was some questioning about whether any business would come to us 'long distance' so income may be reduced (or eliminated!). So, after all these brain configurations I decided that I can save money and install them myself.
At Home Depot gutters were sold in 10 foot lengths. After, loading up on the necessary brackets, downpipes and silicone glue I drove home satisfied that all this cost me $140, therefore saving me $260 if I had it done 'professionally'.
After, many slips of the gutter sections, having to get off my ladder to retrieve the fallen pieces, and using three 10 foot sections (one cut to 9 feet long to fit), I had the gutters and downpipes up. I then waited excitedly for the firsrt rain to see my handiwork and watch as the water went from my downpipe into the water barrels.
Soon one evening, the clouds rolled in and the heavens opened, and rain poured from the sky. I went over to one of the water barrels and was thrilled to see the rain water flowing into the barrel. The rain water was also dripping from every joint of the 10 foot section but it didn't look like too much was falling and with a spring in my step i headed inside.
The next morning I raced outside, wondering how much water had collected. I was immediately disappointed when i saw that both my drainpipes had fallen away from my gutter, allowing the water to fall on the ground, missing my rain barrels.
I headed back to Home Depot and loaded up on silicone glue and mounded more glue over the joints of the 10 foot sections. As well, I bent the downpipes into a smaller shape and forced them back onto the gutter. I won't get into all the gory details but let's just say that I now have buckets, on the ground, under each joint that continues to leak. The down pipes only rarely fall off as I have placed a concrete cinder block between the end of the down pipe and the water barrel. This keeps the downpipe from falling off.
But, the good news is I easily fill up all 4 barrels every major rainstorm. So for most of May, and a few more times in June, July and August I can collect 300 gallons from my barrels to water the garden. I fill up my two 2 1/2 gallon watering cans and handwater my veggie garden and our flower beds.
I sometimes think about, for only $260 more I could have had a professionally looking (and functioning!) gutter and downpipes but I was a CityBoy farmer now and I had to do more around the homestead.
Since buying the place we have not needed to fill up the well and I have stopped collecting the dishwater but still happily collect the rainwater. I estimate that when my barrels are empty I use about 125 gallons of well water, per day, for my garden. I wish I had a bigger cistern to collect the water during the winter months, eliminating my need for the well water for watering the garden.
Chainsaw: episode 2
Well I brought the chainsaw back to the dealer, explaining that I must
have pulled the starter rope off the pulley... He looked at me with disbelief in his eyes, and carried the chainsaw outside. He then pulled the cord and of course it started. I guess you have to pull the starter cord hard. Hard!
When I got home I went back to the chainsaw instruction manual and realized that when the starter cord is pulled the opposite arm pushes down, on the handle, with equal force and 'Voila', the chainsaw starts. I've started it twice now with the same positive result.
Emboldened with my new skill, I felt it was time to fall some trees.
There are 4 trees on the property that are dead and with the numerous wind storms we get here I felt the need to fall them before they blew into the house or greenhouse (or powerline).
Being a wise and thoughtful soul I knew I needed to practice before attempting one of the trees close to the house or powerline, so I picked out a small tree in the back. This tree was about 7" in diameter and about 30-40 feet in height; a small one compared to the dead Maple tree.
The instruction book illustrates the correct method so I started up the chainsaw and went to work....
The first cut is at 45 degrees, at an angle towards the ground, about 1/3 into the tree. This cut is carefully considered as this determines the direction "where the tree will fall." A 45 degree cut on the North side of the tree will eventually make the tree fall to the north, or so the book explained....
The second cut is on the same side as the first cut only parallel to the ground; the cut is made slightly below the first cut and creating a wedge which is dislodged from the north side of tree. If this 'wedge' does not pop out, a sledge hammer is used to hammer it loose.
The last cut is called "the hinge" as it is performed on the south side of the tree, slightly above the 'where the wedge was', and allows the tree to fall North.
Simple!
Right?
Well, after I cut the wedge opening, I began to realize that this 'small tree' was actually big for me! The instruction book warns that the base of the tree can, in some cases. bounce back as the tree falls forward. So I looked over my 'escape route, just in case...
Well I cut the 'hinge' and immediately the tree started falling 'South'. It stopped, closing up the gap created by my hinge or third cut. After, resting awhile I realized that it's Ok if the tree falls to the south and went about cutting above my first attempt. I creating a new wedge on the South side of the tree and hinge on the north. The Tree just stood there.
So I cut a little further into my wedge and my hinge. Still the tree stood unwavering. Then I remembered the book explained that in these cases a wooden wedge is hammered into the hinge-opening, forcing the tree over. So I went and got my wedge and started hammering it with my sledge hammer into the tree. I hammered and hammered.
I stopped when I realized that between the first set of cuts and the second set of cuts that the tree had moved on the stump and now was overhanging. I found a long wood pole and started banging the tree until it slipped off the tree stump. At this point I went and got my camera as it was hard to believe what was happening. The tree had landed beside the stump but was still in a vertical position as the branches from the other tree held it up (mocking me!).
I now got a rope and pulled at the base of the tree until the tree fell; I was a treefaller.
I have learned that I can't control the direction of the tree fall so will now hire a professional tree faller for the large maple tree.
Oh Well!
have pulled the starter rope off the pulley... He looked at me with disbelief in his eyes, and carried the chainsaw outside. He then pulled the cord and of course it started. I guess you have to pull the starter cord hard. Hard!
When I got home I went back to the chainsaw instruction manual and realized that when the starter cord is pulled the opposite arm pushes down, on the handle, with equal force and 'Voila', the chainsaw starts. I've started it twice now with the same positive result.
Emboldened with my new skill, I felt it was time to fall some trees.
There are 4 trees on the property that are dead and with the numerous wind storms we get here I felt the need to fall them before they blew into the house or greenhouse (or powerline).
Being a wise and thoughtful soul I knew I needed to practice before attempting one of the trees close to the house or powerline, so I picked out a small tree in the back. This tree was about 7" in diameter and about 30-40 feet in height; a small one compared to the dead Maple tree.
The instruction book illustrates the correct method so I started up the chainsaw and went to work....
The first cut is at 45 degrees, at an angle towards the ground, about 1/3 into the tree. This cut is carefully considered as this determines the direction "where the tree will fall." A 45 degree cut on the North side of the tree will eventually make the tree fall to the north, or so the book explained....
The second cut is on the same side as the first cut only parallel to the ground; the cut is made slightly below the first cut and creating a wedge which is dislodged from the north side of tree. If this 'wedge' does not pop out, a sledge hammer is used to hammer it loose.
The last cut is called "the hinge" as it is performed on the south side of the tree, slightly above the 'where the wedge was', and allows the tree to fall North.
Simple!
Right?
Well, after I cut the wedge opening, I began to realize that this 'small tree' was actually big for me! The instruction book warns that the base of the tree can, in some cases. bounce back as the tree falls forward. So I looked over my 'escape route, just in case...
Well I cut the 'hinge' and immediately the tree started falling 'South'. It stopped, closing up the gap created by my hinge or third cut. After, resting awhile I realized that it's Ok if the tree falls to the south and went about cutting above my first attempt. I creating a new wedge on the South side of the tree and hinge on the north. The Tree just stood there.
So I cut a little further into my wedge and my hinge. Still the tree stood unwavering. Then I remembered the book explained that in these cases a wooden wedge is hammered into the hinge-opening, forcing the tree over. So I went and got my wedge and started hammering it with my sledge hammer into the tree. I hammered and hammered.
I stopped when I realized that between the first set of cuts and the second set of cuts that the tree had moved on the stump and now was overhanging. I found a long wood pole and started banging the tree until it slipped off the tree stump. At this point I went and got my camera as it was hard to believe what was happening. The tree had landed beside the stump but was still in a vertical position as the branches from the other tree held it up (mocking me!).
I now got a rope and pulled at the base of the tree until the tree fell; I was a treefaller.
I have learned that I can't control the direction of the tree fall so will now hire a professional tree faller for the large maple tree.
Oh Well!
Chainsaw: episode 1
Last night a very strong wind assaulted the Island. All through my restless attempt at sleep I thought about the 50 foot dead maple blowing over, possibly smashing into our bedroom.
In the morning, bleary eyed, I stumbled around the property to find a tree had blown down onto our fence, breaking in half, and landing partially onto the side of the road. I knew then what I had to do. I needed to get out my weapon of the Green Peace Party - my 4 1/2 horse-powered STIHL Chainsaw.
Learning from previous mistakes, I tried to start my chainsaw by the shop rather than carry it all the way to the back with the possibility of having to carry it back (sheepishly) without being able to start it. So I pulled and pulled that starter cord. And I pulled and pulled. Nothing, not even a little sputter. Exhausted, I went back inside and removed my safety equipment.
After lunch, I put my safety gear back on and with optimism I tried again to start my chainsaw. I pulled and pulled. Finally, I went into my shop and got my 10" handsaw and holding it close to my body (just in case someone saw me with this little Mattel toy-like saw) I walked quickly back to the fallen tree. I began (GOD, is this boring or what!) cutting through the tree. After penetrating the tree bark I stopped so I wouldn't puke from the effort. Not wanting to give up I continued sawing until the tree was in four 8 foot lengths (please don't feel obligated to continue reading this pathetic story of male inaptitude. I'll never know. Delete it now before you become too depressed.)
Any ways, where was I...
Right. I had finished sawing the trees and went back to my shop and got my wagon.
(OK. This is getting ridiculous. Yes, I know; I have a wagon. But it's not just any ordinary wagon. Ok, yes it is green plastic, but I bought it at Lee Valley and it is made for the garden. Before you go mad, delete. DELETE!!!).
So I was a bit embarrassed pulling my wagon close to the road allowing passing motorists in their 350 H.P. pick-ups with their gun-mounts visible in the back, to see me with my little green wagon. Undeterred, I loaded the four logs onto the wagon and began the long journey back to the shop. I had gone about 3 feet when my load rolled onto the ground. I grunted and managed to stack the logs back on. This time I managed to go 5 feet before all the logs rolled off. 'OK, I won't be greedy', I thought. 'I'll bring 2 at a time'. Both logs rolled off my wagon in seconds. So, I left my wagon and lifted one of the logs and began to carry it back to the shop (did I mention, that it was pouring the whole time!). About 2 hours later, I had my logs near the shop, ready to be cut into firelogs when, one day, I get my chainsaw started....
In the morning, bleary eyed, I stumbled around the property to find a tree had blown down onto our fence, breaking in half, and landing partially onto the side of the road. I knew then what I had to do. I needed to get out my weapon of the Green Peace Party - my 4 1/2 horse-powered STIHL Chainsaw.
Learning from previous mistakes, I tried to start my chainsaw by the shop rather than carry it all the way to the back with the possibility of having to carry it back (sheepishly) without being able to start it. So I pulled and pulled that starter cord. And I pulled and pulled. Nothing, not even a little sputter. Exhausted, I went back inside and removed my safety equipment.
After lunch, I put my safety gear back on and with optimism I tried again to start my chainsaw. I pulled and pulled. Finally, I went into my shop and got my 10" handsaw and holding it close to my body (just in case someone saw me with this little Mattel toy-like saw) I walked quickly back to the fallen tree. I began (GOD, is this boring or what!) cutting through the tree. After penetrating the tree bark I stopped so I wouldn't puke from the effort. Not wanting to give up I continued sawing until the tree was in four 8 foot lengths (please don't feel obligated to continue reading this pathetic story of male inaptitude. I'll never know. Delete it now before you become too depressed.)
Any ways, where was I...
Right. I had finished sawing the trees and went back to my shop and got my wagon.
(OK. This is getting ridiculous. Yes, I know; I have a wagon. But it's not just any ordinary wagon. Ok, yes it is green plastic, but I bought it at Lee Valley and it is made for the garden. Before you go mad, delete. DELETE!!!).
So I was a bit embarrassed pulling my wagon close to the road allowing passing motorists in their 350 H.P. pick-ups with their gun-mounts visible in the back, to see me with my little green wagon. Undeterred, I loaded the four logs onto the wagon and began the long journey back to the shop. I had gone about 3 feet when my load rolled onto the ground. I grunted and managed to stack the logs back on. This time I managed to go 5 feet before all the logs rolled off. 'OK, I won't be greedy', I thought. 'I'll bring 2 at a time'. Both logs rolled off my wagon in seconds. So, I left my wagon and lifted one of the logs and began to carry it back to the shop (did I mention, that it was pouring the whole time!). About 2 hours later, I had my logs near the shop, ready to be cut into firelogs when, one day, I get my chainsaw started....
CityBoyFarmer
How can a cityboy survive as a farmer? Can a cityboy, who has spent decades under flourescent tubing in office towers, make a living in the country? A city boy who got water from a water cooler and drank out of little paper dixie cups? A city boy who saw his business lose thousands of dollars when 9/11 occurred and decided to leave the big city and live a simpler life 'on-the-farm'.
Why should should someone read this diary? This diary is for people to learn 'what not to do' and 'what to do' in order to survive in the country. This is a diary for people who want to learn how to farm, organically. How to live without pesticides, and chemicals but still grow healthy vegetables. This is the place to learn how to create a natural 'eco-system' where birds, snakes and beneficial insects thrive.
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